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中国科学院大学学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 36 ›› Issue (4): 433-443.DOI: 10.7523/j.issn.2095-6134.2019.04.001

• 综述 •    下一篇

近岸水波非线性特性研究

周子理1, 张怀1,2, 石耀霖1   

  1. 1. 中国科学院大学地球与行星科学学院 中国科学院计算地球动力学实验室, 北京 100049;
    2. 青岛海洋科学与技术国家实验室, 山东 青岛 266237
  • 收稿日期:2018-03-13 修回日期:2018-05-02 发布日期:2019-07-15
  • 通讯作者: 周子理
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划(2017YFC0601406)、国家杰出青年科学基金(41725017)、国家自然科学基金重大项目(41590864)和中国科学院中国-斯里兰卡联合科教中心基金资助

Research on the nonlinearity of nearshore water waves

ZHOU Zili1, ZHANG Huai1,2, SHI Yaolin1   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Computational Geodynamics of CAS, College of Earth and Planetary Sciences, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, China;
    2. Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology, Qingdao 266237, Shandong, China
  • Received:2018-03-13 Revised:2018-05-02 Published:2019-07-15

摘要: 近岸水波非线性特性研究在理解近岸波浪与水流的物理特性、利用近岸海洋资源以及预防近岸减灾方面有重要意义。近年发展了许多新的非线性近岸水波方程。各个物理场景或问题因海底坡度、海底粗糙程度等因素不同,适应的非线性物理方程也有所不同。主要非线性方程对于不同问题的适用情况及计算效率问题是研究人员需要了解的。归纳总结非线性分类方法,以及不同非线性方程及其适用的近岸非线性物理场景,包括对它们物理特性的描述、非线性程度的分析。非线性特性的研究可以帮助了解不同场景的非线性程度,以此选取更适当的模型,对研究者具有一定的借鉴意义。

关键词: 非线性, 数学模型, 控制方程, 波浪

Abstract: The research on the nonlinearity of nearshore water waves has a significant meaning in helping us to understand the physical characteristics of nearshore waves and currents, to utilize nearshore marine resources, and to assist the decision-making process of the hazard prediction and mitigation. In recent years, many new nonlinear nearshore wave equations were developed. However, because different processes have different topographical conditions and roughness, they adapt to different governing equations. It is necessary to know the application scopes and calculation efficiencies of the main nonlinear wave equations. This paper reviews the methods of nonlinearity classification and reviews the main nonlinear wave models and their applications for nearshore regions, including their physical properties and the degree of nonlinearity. This paper will help researchers to understand the nonlinearity of different nearshore issues and to choose a suitable simulation model.

Key words: nonlinearity, mathematical model, governing equations, water waves

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